Malika Parbat Climbing Guide: Conquering Pakistan’s Dreadful Mountain

Malika Parbat, the highest peak in the Kaghan Valley of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, rises to an elevation of 5,290 meters (17,360 feet) above sea level. As an emblem of nature’s grandeur, it is known locally as the Queen of the Mountains, a title that captures its regal standing among the Himalayan ranges. Malika Parbat Climbing requires some serious guts to complete it. The peak is located approximately 6 kilometers south of the picturesque Saiful Muluk Lake, near the tear-shaped Ansoo Lake, enhancing the scenic beauty of this challenging mountain.

The allure of Malika Parbat draws climbers from around the world, seeking to conquer its heights and experience the splendid isolation of its surroundings. The journey to the summit is known for its technical difficulties, offering a mix of rugged terrain and unpredictable weather conditions. This mountain has particularly gained fame within the climbing community after the successful ascent by Pakistani climber Imran Junaidi and Jens Simonsen from Denmark in July 2012, with Junaidi being celebrated as the first Pakistani to summit the North peak of Malika Parbat.

Climbing Malika Parbat

Malika Parbat is the highest peak in the Kaghan Valley of Pakistan, offering climbers rugged terrain and a challenging ascend. This section will detail the optimal season for climbing, routes with their respective difficulties, and the essentials of cost and preparation.

Best Season for Climbing

Spring to Early Autumn (April to September): The best time to climb Malika Parbat is during the drier months, from April to September, when weather conditions are relatively stable.

  • April to June: Cool temperatures, lower chance of precipitation
  • July to September: Warmer temperatures, some increased risk of monsoon rains

Climbing Routes and Difficulties

North Peak:
It is the most accessible and climbed peak of Malika Parbat. The routes on this peak vary, ranging from technical ice and rock climbing to mixed terrain. Climbing Malika Parbat is considered less challenging than attempting the notorious Nanga Parbat; however, the difficulty should not be underestimated.

  • Standard Route Difficulty: Moderate to difficult
  • Technical Sections: Presence of crevasses and seracs requiring alpine climbing skills

Costs and Preparations

Costs include permits, guides, porters, and logistics. While costs can vary greatly, climbers should budget several thousand dollars.

  • Permit Costs: Can fluctuate; it is advisable to check with local authorities.
  • Guide and Porter Services: Essential for route finding and carrying supplies.

Preparations should encompass physical conditioning, technical climbing skill enhancement, and assembling the necessary equipment for a high-altitude expedition.

  • Physical Training: Months of endurance, strength, and altitude acclimatization
  • Equipment: High-quality climbing gear, weather-appropriate clothing, and safety devices

Notable Climbs

Malika Parbat, renowned for its challenging ascents, has witnessed a variety of notable climbs over the years, involving both triumph and tragedy.

First Ascents

The North Peak of Malika Parbat was first summited in 1920 by Captain B.W. Battye alongside four Gurkha soldiers. This was a pioneering ascent that set the precedent for future climbers. After several decades, in 1967, the North Peak saw its second ascent by a team comprised of Trevor Braham, Norman Norris, and Gene White. Their successful climb added to the mountain’s climbing history, further cementing its reputation as a coveted peak for mountaineers.

Notable Climbers

Several climbing attempts on Malika Parbat’s peaks have been recorded. In 1998, two Pakistanis, Rashid Butt and Omer Aziz, successfully reached the Main Peak. Sadly, Rashid Butt passed away during the descent. More recently, in August 2012, an expedition led by Ahmed Mujtaba Ali from Pakistan made headlines for summiting Malika Parbat. Climbers from Pakistan, alongside international mountaineers, continue to be drawn to the peak, though the total number of successful ascents remains relatively low, highlighting the mountain’s difficulty and the exceptional achievements of those who reach its summit.

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